We're ice fetishists, let's get that out there in advance. We keep a variety of moulds in the freezer to shape ice to our whims and fancies. After all, it really makes a difference when it comes down to extracting the maximum amount of flavor out of a beverage.
But Kathryn Weatherup's eponymous entry in the westernization of the {former} Cesar Chavez barrio, takes the precept that ice holds grave importance in the construction of a cocktail, to a whole 'nother level.
At fourteen or so pages, the menu at Weather Ups is substantial. You could throw your back out if you tried to heft the thing, so we just sort of gingerly scooted it around the table and leafed through it as best we could.
Whenever presented with a Chinese restaurant-style drink menu, we always revert to an old standard: the Dark n Stormy.
The very fact that the cocktail waitress at Weather Up's didn't blanch over this request, represents a serious evolution in Austin. As a variety of "craft" cocktail bars have opened here in the past few years we've always rushed in to get the lay of the land.
Not one had ever heard of this legendary cocktail.
Our drinks arrive with the requisite mammoth block of ice in each one. As the temperature is approaching a hundred degrees, it's nice to see your cocktail have at least a fighting chance of remaining enjoyable without having to resort to gulping and chugging like we often do.
Always blame conspicuous consumption on the weather, it will keep you in good stead.
These cocktails show the work of a careful hand. There's plentiful rum and the ginger syrup has a big bite but is nicely balanced.
Weather Up occupies the former Azul space. The revamp of the old building has rendered it unrecognizable. It seems twice as big as the old coffee shop that was formerly housed within. The bar has perhaps a dozen cleverly designed stools mounted along it with banquettes dominating the rest of the room.
Outside is a lovely patio filled with enough iron furniture to accommodate 3 dozen boozers. Food is coming to Weather Ups soon, the menu is printed on the front part of the voluminous cocktail list, but apparently the kitchen is not up and running just yet.
No matter, this bar will never be a destination for eating. It's a cocktail lounge, plain and simple. Not too many years ago this concept would've hit with a thud in East Austin but the changing nature of the neighborhood {the white folks is comin'} means that, in 2012, it will do just fine.
read about round 2, a brace of Velvet Bucks with Falernum! http://chowpapi.com/wordpress/wordpress-2.8.6/wordpress
#1 by poryorick on 6/11/12 - 5:56 AM
#2 by rl on 6/11/12 - 9:44 AM
#3 by Alan Sudo on 6/12/12 - 3:20 AM
That was the date when you took to Chowhound Austin to fight for the soul of East Austin. It seems that an eastside restaurateur had saved his profits from thousands of breakfast tacos and plates of migas. A proud father, he sent his son to The Culinary Institute of America only to have him return years later infected with the dementia of NYC and dreams of an East Austin restaurant combining the food of his youth with the CIA's flare.
Remember scoffing at the "Habanero infused tequila" or finding the $10 Huevos Rancheros "plainly offensive" and "shameless".
"Get a grip on yourself Zandunga, this is Austin not Manhattan".
Fast Forward and I would probably have to speak German - the language of Schadenfreude and Backpfeifengesicht - to accurately describe the guilty anticipation I felt when I saw you would be reviewing Weather Ups. Come on, we're talking about a bartender who, according to the New York Times, is proud of the fact that she likes a wide bar so she doesn't have to talk to the customers. A bar with three locations: Tribeca, Brooklyn and ... Chicon Street?
I anticipated the lacerations as you contrasted Abuelita and her precious granddaughter stopping by on their way to El Palacio De La Quinceanera for "house-carved ice from the Weather Up signature ice program" or the sweaty studs in their dirty blue uniforms taking a break from installing used tires down the street to "see the ice production and harvesting" from the Clinebell out back.
Then I read the review - Et tu, Scrumptious? You're "champing at the bit"?! Not even the Germans have a word for the disappointment I'm feeling now.
I'm old enough to remember another big city chappie that came thru Austin years ago. All the way from San Francisco, he ended up making a name for himself serving drinks as well - a particularly special cocktail based on Kool-Aid.
Well it looks like Ms Weatherup has you drinking her Kool-Aid. But I guess that’s OK ... it's served over some freakin gorgeous ice.
#4 by rl on 6/12/12 - 9:40 AM
#5 by poryorick on 6/12/12 - 3:35 PM
Weather Up is “the good” in that it will raise the level of quality mixology in this city without situating itself in our version of Manhattan (though Williamsburg, a little, perhaps), that vacuous dead zone of downtown culture where businesses survive in spite of their quality.
Contrasting that, “the good” for the neighborhood could be impacted by the mounting successes of non-traditional businesses finding purchase in an underdeveloped area of the city which will, in turn, affect (and possibly diminish or destroy) those small local businesses that we all would like to see protected.
There's no real way to close the box at this point, but I think that energy would be better spent considering ways to balance the various "goods," so that we can have both our excellent $2 tacos and our excellent $10 cocktails.
#6 by Alan Sudo on 6/13/12 - 6:04 PM
I find it kinda funny that he says that handbar mustaches, ice fetishes and vodka bashing were over and done with by Jan 2011. That explains why these guys are leaving Portland and Brooklyn and trying to open up here - those cities have already wised up.
I'll take good friendly service and an honest pour any day over whatever happened to be fashionable in NYC in 2010.
... and mescal. I really love mescal :)
#7 by Adam Bryan on 6/23/12 - 2:40 PM