It was a cold, Wintry day in Texas back in the 90s when I first set out to create my own riff on posole, the time-honored unofficial state dish of New Mexico. My Hatch chile reserve (I freeze 30lbs every August) had run dry so I made a Fiesta Mart trip to lay in some chile Poblano, tomatillos and fresh hog bones and meat.

Char-Grilled Tomatillos And Poblano Chiles

Char-Grilled Tomatillos And Poblano Chiles

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A recipe for San Antonio Chili

We were barely up and running on our Scrumptious Chef pop up restaurant series when we decided to tackle Tex Mex cuisine through the lens of the epicenter of Mexican food in USA: San Antonio, Texas.

“Keep San Antonio Lame” is a tee shirt you see worn half-heartedly by natives of the River City. We beg to differ as we’ve had nothing but good times in SA or Zahn Ahn Tonyeeo as residents call the 8th largest city in the US. But then again we’re mainly in it for the food, though if fashion was more our thing, we could sing hosannas to the highest for the women folk of that city as they routinely spend two hours or more in front of makeup mirrors prior to heading to the nearest HEB. Continue Reading

We make chili year round in Texas. It’s what sustains us. 110 degrees in the dead of summer? Time to make chili. Leaves a falling in East Austin? Time to make chili. There is simply no food that nourishes the soul and feeds the spirit like a kettle of chili.

We make all kinds: Texas Red, Kentucky White, Mexican brown…you name it. If it involves chile peppers and few hours on the stovetop we’ll tackle it and wrestle it around til it turns into food. Continue Reading

I was raised on chili. My mom regularly made a batch using red kidneys and ground beef. My grandma had an oddly wonderful take that featured white beans and green tomatoes. My aunts and uncles all knocked out kettles of the stuff and my dad? He made a version at the house for the wife and kids, but he saved the evil for his buddies at the volunteer fire department where he concocted a fierce, witches brew that would singe the brass stays off your Wranglers. I grew up on chili.

One of my favorite styles is carne molida or taco meat as it’s commonly known. Yes, it goes great on crispy taco shells with shredded Colby Jack cheese, iceberg lettuce and sour cream but it also eats good with a spoon. And maybe a fistful of Fritos. Or build a big pile of tototopos, top them with refried beans, carne molida and cheese then give the whole affair a spin under the broiler for a couple minutes. Basically, anyway you can get this food in you will be acceptable. It is delicious.

If you order crispy tacos in a restaurant in Austin, the menu probably won’t say it, but you’re going to get carne molida as the primary filling. It’s one of the cornerstones of Tex Mex cuisine and is one of the first dishes any budding Tex Mex cook learns when they host their first taco night in their college apartment.

Most American’s carne molida virginity has been taken by that randy, leathery honcho: the Old El Paso taco kit. Who knows how many millions of people have been introduced to Tex Mex via this supermarket mainstay. And it’s fine-if you’re 11 years old and eating tacos in a rumpus room in Missouri. But here in Austin we can afford to be picky about our chili in spite of the fact that the grand daddy, Texas Red, is scarce as cheap old rent houses on the East Side.

Want to establish your Tex Mex bona fides? The following recipe is one of the easiest formulas you can follow to create a genuine Austin-style, Tex Mex dish. Put some Freddie Fender on the hi fi, crack open a can of Pearl beer and hit the kitchen running wide open.

Recipe: Carne Molida


2 lbs Beef, ground, I use 73/27

3 T. Chile Powder, Guajillo, found at Fiesta, La Michoacana or El Milagro*

1 T. Cumin

1 T. Cayenne, ground

2 t. Garlic powder

salt to taste

1 12 oz Can Tomatoes, whole peeled, pureed


* Brown meat in heavy bottom pan

* Add dry spices

* Cook for ten minutes, mixing thoroughly

* Add pureed tomatoes, simmer for 15 minutes or til chili thickens


You now have a wonderful filling for crispy tacos.

A topping for nachos or Frito Pies.

A protein for a big, fat taco salad or a bowl chili you can eat with a side of crackers.

Is the above recipe not to your liking?

Then tackle the classic bowl of Texas Red via

*In a pinch we’ll use Gebhardt Chili Powder if we can’t get the pure stuff. William Gebhardt’s back story is sublime. He ran a cafe attached to the legendary Phoenix Saloon in San Antonio. The Saloon featured : “… a deer pen, an alligator pit and ring for fighting badgers”

What great sport it would’ve made if one could’ve sipped on a cold Pearl beer, ate a bowl of San Antonio Chili and watched 2 badgers grapple with one another on a balmy 1890s San Antonio evening.

We eat a lot of alligator.

The state of Louisiana is our source and with a gator population north of 1.5 million there’s plenty to be had in the meat markets that dot the western prairies of the Pelican State. Louisiana has had a controlled wild harvest in place since 1972.

Back when the harvest got started, it was limited to the southwestern part of the state and only twelve hundred creatures were taken. Nowadays the hunt is statewide and skilled woodsmen take over thirty two thousand of the ornery beasts per annum. Pole hunting is prohibited and the majority of the animals are taken via the time-honored line catching technique. That doesn’t mean there aren’t some old school Cajuns out there with a spotlight and a high powered rifle.

Alligator is delicious.

Now that Hatch Chile season has arrived we’ve been in the kitchen nightly, tinkering with recipes to feature the delicious, seasonal pepper. Like this one:

Smoked Alligator Enchiladas With Roasted Hatch Chiles


2 lb Chiles, Hatch, roasted, chopped

1 lb Alligator, smoked, chopped

2 lb Tomatilla, roasted

1 12 oz Can, Milk, Evaporated

1 qt Stock, chicken

1 lb Cheese, Colby/Jack, shredded

18 each Tortillas corn


* Pulse tomatillos and Hatch Chiles in food processor til almost smooth

* Bring chicken stock to boil

* Add evaporated milk, return to boil, reduce

* Combine with tomatillo mixture

* Cook tortillas in hot fat til right at crispy

Now let’s build the casserole

* Coat 9″ x 14″ casserole pan with olive oil

* Pour a skift of tomatillo sauce in bottom of pan

* Add 6 corn tortillas

* Place enough chopped gator to cover tortillas

* Drizzle with tomatillo sauce

* Cover with cheeses

* Repeat order above til casserole is finished making sure top layer is cheese

* Bake at 250 degrees for 45 minutes

* Let casserole sit up for a few minutes before slicing


A few nights ago a friend was in town visiting from Arizona when we made this recipe.

“What smells so good”

“I’m making a pan of gator enchiladas”



Texas forever

Cooking notes:

* Garnish with a hefty dollop of crema Salvadorena.

* I normally use heavy cream to unify the sauce, but I was out so I utilized evaporated milk instead.

* Evaporated milk is regular milk that has been reduced by sixty percent. It’s a classic casserole ingredient used by housewives all over the Deep South.

* A good side dish for this one dish meal would be Pinto Beans With Jalapenos and Bacon

and/or Cajun Green Onion Rice Pilaf

I had no intention of posting this recipe but it came out so good it would be a crime to not share it.


I’m a Hatch Chile pepper hoarder. Every August, when the Hatch Chiles come in season, I eat them every single day til near the end of availability. Then, right when they’re about to vanish, I buy fifteen to twenty pounds and roast them to store in the freezer. It’s a fifteen year tradition in my house.

Recently it dawned on me that it’s almost Hatch season again, so I rooted around in my freezer til I found 2 bags with 6 peppers apiece in them. First in, first out. Number one rule in any kitchen.

Time to cook.

I had a pound of brisket from Perez Barbecue, as well as a couple quarts of chicken stock, so I was pretty well set for basic ingredients.

Here’s my recipe for Smoked Brisket and Hatch Chile Stew.


1 lb Brisket, smoked

12 each, Chiles, Hatch, roasted, chopped

2 lbs Potatoes, new, quartered

2 quarts Stock, chicken {if you don’t have it, make some instant with Better Than Bouillon}

2 each Onions, Texas Sweet, sliced

1 T. Worcestershire {incorporated this on a lark and it added a lot of body to the broth}


* Fire kettle on stove top with stock and potatoes

* Slice onions and brown nicely in separate pan

* When potatoes are nearly done, add chopped brisket, chiles, onions and worcestershire

* At this point I made a slurry with a quarter cup of masa mix to thicken the stew. Alternately you could remove 2 cups of potatoes and mash them, then return to kettle, or make a slurry with corn starch. I like the nuttiness of masa harina golden corn flour and utilize it in lots of Tex Mex recipes

* Turn kettle to low and let quietly simmer for an hour til flavors have married

Voila! Sometimes you hit the kitchen and work with what you have and end up with a dynamite recipe.

Bon Appetit Y’all

more Tex Mex recipes

With night time temperatures dipping down into the 50’s it’s looking like the brutal Austin winter is now upon us. Which means it’s time to make a kettle of chili.

We actually make it year round as it is one of our favorite foods of all time.

With an extensive repertoire of chilis in our arsenal we often have to take the sofa for a spin while we meditate on which chili needs to be implemented on which particular day. Continue Reading

Fideo has a thousand mothers, each claiming primacy. One mujere insists that tomatoes are the most crucial ingredient while another claims that the inclusion of them makes the soup “not fideo” but indeed, the dish must include tomatillas to be considered part of the canon..

We’re late comers to the sopa de fideo tradition. It wasn’t until the late 90’s when a torrid affair found us in Brownsville Texas and at the table of a bona fide culinary genius that we were indoctrinated into the tradition. Efiginea was born in Mexico but has lived in USA for over 50 years. She’s raised 9 children and has countless grandkids and great grandkids. In a family filled with good cooks, this septuagenarian is still the Queen Bee.

When we’re in the presence of superior chefs one course of action must be taken. Out comes the pad and pen and the note taking commences. As Efiginea bustles about in the kitchen we scribble furiously hoping against all hope that we’ll be able to create a reasonable facsimile of this vaunted recipe at some point in the future.

Here’s Sope de Fideo, inspired by Efiginea of Brownsville Texas


1 6 oz packet vermicelli noodles

1 bunch celery

2 each 12 oz cans tomatoes, whole, peeled [ pureed or roughly chopped as to your preference]

1 roasting hen

2 each Onion, yellow, sweet, chopped

8 oz Mushrooms, sliced

1 Bunch, Green onions, giant, chopped

6 each Chiles, Hatch, chopped [poblano would be more traditional]

2 each Chiles, Cayenne, chopped [jalapeno would be more traditional]

4 each Leaves, Bay

1 T. Peppercorns, Black



* In large kettle submerge chicken in cold, salted water with bay leaves and peppercorns

* Bring to boil, reduce to simmer

* Cook one hour or til chicken is done

* Remove hen from water, reserve water

* Shred meat off bone, reserve

* Return carcass to water, bring to boil, reduce to simmer, cook 2 hours

* Remove carcass, discard along with bay and pepper, you now have your chicken stock

* In separate pan cook onions on high heat for 15 minutes

* Reduce heat, cook for 45 minutes more

* Add celery and chiles cook 15 minutes

* Add green onions and mushrooms, cook 10 minutes

* Add onion, celery,chile, mushroom mixture to chicken stock along with tomatoes, vermicelli and chopped chicken

* Simmer everything on stovetop til vermicelli puffs up in broth

* Adjust flavor with salt

* Intense deliciousness is now at the ready

* Buen Provecho

Cooking notes:

1] I later discovered that it is traditional to fry the noodles in oil or butter prior to their being simmered in the broth. Efiginea did not follow this technique.

2] Also, a lot of fideo cooks add pinto beans, potatoes or both to their fideo. Efiginea added neither to hers.

3] There is also the phenomenon of fideo tacos where the fideo is cooked “down” to the point where the soup is viscous, the noodles are then ladled onto tortillas and served as tacos.

4] Typical garnishes for this soup include avocado, crema, lime juice, chopped fresh onion, cilantro, hard grating cheese and fried tortilla strips

5] There is also the phenomenon of fideo casserole, an intriguing dish if ever there was one and definitely a subject for another post in the future

How do you make your fideo?

Did you grow up eating it or are you new to the canon?