rl reeves jr reports on the US soul food scene

In Atlanta, Georgia, Mexican soul food joint Blaxican has closed. They should auction the name as it’s one of the greatest portmanteaus in the world of food. I never had the chance to eat there but I routinely cook mashups of soul food, and Mexican food, and I completely appreciate the gimmick. Here’s the story of the demise.

“Thelma Grundy, 93, died April 18 from a head injury after a fall at home.” If you were a Deep South eater with access to regional newspapers and magazines from the seventies onward you certainly read a gushing article about Thelma Grundy and her world-class meat and three platters. I would happily drown in a tureen of her pork fat gravy. Read about the legacy of Miss Thelma here.

Does anyone else get sad when they think about the thousands of little rural diners that they’ll never get to visit in their lifetime? I just read a short review of Arlene’s Kountry Kitchen and it filled me with a sense of melancholia. It’s in Corsicana, Texas. more

Victory Grill in Austin opened up in 1945, and had a long, serious run as one of the prime stops on the old-timey chitlin’ circuit. It’s opened and closed and opened again over the years with different tenants each time. Now Rolling Rooster is taking a crack at success in the old barroom. We used to love to go to shows there back in the nineties. more

“The most popular thing we’ve got right now is the Ol’ Dirty Biscuit, that’s our number one selling biscuit,” said Ashworth. “Its got fried chicken, homemade sausage gravy, homemade pickles and homemade smoked pimento cheese on a biscuit.” That’s Ace Biscuit and Barbeque owner Brian Ashworth trying to coax us into his Charlotte, North Carolina restaurant more

My mom’s biscuits were otherworldly. To this day they are the finest I ever ate so I’m always a little leery about trying restaurant biscuits. You know she was a dyed – in – the wool southern gal as her secret weapon in the dough was a softball-sized dollop of good mayonnaise.

Dee Jay Jones Peppered Swiss Steak Recipe

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