You can’t hang with the New Orleans heavyweights if you don’t take the time to press the bread on a hot plancha for a few seconds. The Dong Phuong loaf was fresh but cold as a parson’s cupboard at Epiphany.We love the rough and tumble side road that Seither’s is located on out in Harahan, Louisiana just a short 20 minute drive from the 9th Ward of New Orleans. There are plenty drywall contractors, muffler shops, shotgun shacks, and rival restaurants on Hickory Avenue.
We always feel at home when the natives have tape measures clipped to their belts, and their Dickies are covered with spackle.Walking across the oyster shell strewn parking lot to get into Seither’s feels like Vermilion Parish. It’s homely little run-down spots like this that have nourished us since we were kids and there is no greater feeling than sauntering into a mom and pop where you know a serious cook is plying his trade.
Jason Seither has been feted by the masses at the big New Orleans po boy fest winning best po boy in a variety of divisions on five separate occasions. We first encountered the chef at the big Oak Street shootout when he was putting out our first ever artichoke po boy.
It was killer.Sheepshead fish is on offer at Seither’s as fish of the day so our menu scan grinds to a halt immediately. Sheepshead is a criminally underappreciated fish and any time we see it on a local menu we begin gnashing our teeth with anticipation.
A Rock ‘n’ Roll po-boy comes with avocado, cucumber, dragon sauce, eel sauce and fire sauce. The Sheepshead has been blackened with a tawny crust serving the fillets to good effect. The melange of sauces is well thought out and leads to a dizzying rush of flavor. We’re used to just getting a skift of Blue Plate mayo so the heady burst of three different drizzles sends our mouth into overload.
The po boy is beautiful, the prettiest of the series but the cold bread shows sloth on the part of the line cook.We’re curious to see how good Seither’s ‘back of the stove’ cooking is. Sure he knows his way around the fishes of the sea but what good can he do working in the soul food spectrum where you load a big kettle full of groceries and put the flame on low and let it ride all day long?
One way to find out. Call the restaurant and find out what day backbone stew is on offer.
Why would we ever leave New Orleans proper to gambol about our town’s exurban sprawl? The benefits are innumerable. Go where your curiosity takes you and you may find a gem of a restaurant like Seither’s out in Harahan, Louisiana.
279 Hickory Ave
New Orleans, Louisiana
Hours of operation
always call ahead