E.B White spoke eloquently on what he called “the golden companionship of the tavern”. Indeed, is there a finer place on earth to while away your time than in the company of a sage barman at a corner tavern or restaurant in New Orleans?

There’s plenty golden companionship to be found at bars and drinkeries in our lovely, murderous city. The whole neighborhood seemingly comes out to hang at Ooh Poo Pah Doo Bar in Treme, and we’ve lost track of how many pleasurable evenings we’ve spent at BJ’s Lounge in the Upper 9th.

Eating at the bar brings its own pleasures as the bartender invariably has the inside details on what’s really going on in the kitchen. On a recent visit, the barman at the Tasting Room on Magazine broke down some details on their new-ish chef that led us to an escargot dish that stands among the finest small plates in the entire city.

In the Advocate Ian McNulty fanned out across town to explore eating off the bartop in restaurants where most people prefer table service.

It’s a great read.

If you want to discover New Orleans have a go at sitting at Markey’s Bar or Chuck’s amid the budding Hart Cranes and Eugene O’Neills with the bartender conducting the affairs of the crowd.