By now those riders are famous; mainly for getting themselves killed as they zoom up and down the byways of New Orleans with nary a care in the world.
That ‘come what may’ attitude serves them well until they’re sliding face first down the tarmac at 60mph.In the leafy expanse of Armstrong park there is nary a Kawasaki ATV or Yamaha Enduro in sight as we take in the sounds of D.L Menard, the lion of Louisiana’s Cajun music scene.
We’re fresh off work and starving but Menard holds us hungry and powerless as his voice has not lost one whit of lustre since he recorded ‘The Back Door’ when Moses was young.
Soon enough the old man has to take a break while his crackerjacks take turns sawing, squeezing and stomping on their instruments.
Time for a po boy.Cafe Dauphine puts an estimable fried soft shell crab sandwich out for $10. The crab approaches ‘whale’ size, that genre that all lovers of crabs yearn for in Louisiana. Sometimes these beasts measure nearly a foot across.
Vending in the heat and humidity of New Orleans is a real challenge as eaters expect restaurant quality food even if it’s sold from a kiosk on Congo Square.
The loaf has suffered a bit as that signature crackle is long gone, surrendered to the humid air of Armstrong Park. The crab’s denouement in hot fat has happened at some point in the distant past but infrared lights have been put to good use and the po boy is still fairly hot.
Value added comes in the form of a careful take on remoulade, that grizzled, old sauce that’s the backbone of many a Creole kitchen in town.
Soft shell crab is the ne plus ultra of po boy proteins ranking just above pot roast in the pantheon. If you know of a particularly good version in south Louisiana holler at us.
5229 Dauphine St
New Orleans, Louisiana
Hours of operation
always call ahead
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