Yams Ham And Peas. Soul Food-White Folks-Style

This is the first installment of Soul Food Universal Register for 2017. Let’s get down to business y’all.

George’s Chicken And Fish has opened on the frozen tundras of Wisconsin. While the thought of living that far north fills us with an existential dread, we can get behind owner George Green Jr’s menu of green beans, fried okra, spaghetti, onion rings, fried chicken, catfish, sweet potato pie, and mac and cheese.

Wisconsin readers please ship us a review with lots of photos.

There has been endless talk of the reinvention of soul food in the past five years. Vegans are claiming to make soul food nowadays, and the race to strip calories and flavor out of oxtails and collards is ongoing, and disturbing. But we are intrigued by chef Deborah Van Trece’s fresh take on old soul food classics. Van Trece runs Twisted Soul Cookhouse and Pours, an Atlanta restaurant that’s frying their chicken in cast-iron pans but also paying close attention to how the food looks on the plates. They serve a Deviled Egg Po Boy that had us slobbering like coon hounds, sell ‘legal’ moonshine (whatever that is) and have created duck and dumplings, with duck confit and sweet potato dumplings, a dish that nearly had us ready to drive the 500 miles to Atlanta.

Cassandra Gaines is dead. She created the National Soul Food-Cook Off in 2004. Our crew would’ve loved to have competed in that shootout.

We know little about the Buddhist orthodoxy in Cambodia. But when a tale of Cambodian soul food came across our desk our ears perked up. And the backstory is even better with it’s tales of suffering souls ‘starved of food and scorched by the fires of hell.’

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