We’ve been determined to make our way over to the West Bank of New Orleans to do some food exploring so when Trombone Shorty staged a free afternoon concert at a defunct ghetto in Gretna we decided to go all in and find a tucked-away neighborhood seafood joint to complete the experience.
Walking into De-No Seafood Restaurant, it immediately becomes apparent that we’re in a former Taco Tico. The legendary Kansas-based fast food outlet must have fallen on hard times in Gretna and had to close up shop. Hard to figure as they’re one of the few franchise restaurants we would even consider eating in. Perhaps the good people of Jefferson Parish aren’t hip to how good Kansas-style Tex Mex is.
The dining room is surreally quiet. The average age of the patrons is roughly 85 and all attending are being respectful, keeping their heads down and making as little sound as possible. A big screen TV is murmuring Fox news but otherwise the place is mausoleum-quiet.
A dozen raw oysters arrive ($10) and they are plump and gleaming. Expertly cleaned, the only quibble we have is that they are not ice cold, chilled yes, but that pleasant bite of cold is missing.
Our waiter, who is roughly 13 years old, is expedient and friendly, checking after our weal from time to time as he bustles about in the gloaming silence.
A seafood platter comes to table and it’s a paean to the pleasure of Louisiana seafood with a hillock of fried catfish and shrimp straddling a goodly mound of freezer bag french fries. A loaded baked potato rides shotgun. The catfish is all sweet meat with a light dredge of barely-seasoned cornmeal providing a bit of crunch. The shrimp have a slight iodine bite but otherwise are near fine.
A little old lady nearby is ravaging a dozen raw oysters and a party tray humped up with boiled crawfish. Would that we will all be able to enjoy our golden years hovering over such a repast.
De-No Seafood has been in business for right at 20 years. It’s a spartan place, sombre even, but when the kitchen is performing at this level we don’t care. Gretna may as well be a million miles from The Bywater as we rarely find ourselves over that way but should we care to take a flyer to The West Bank we now have an ace in the hole to vector in on.
De No Seafood
505 Gretna Blvd,
Hours Of Operation
Monday 11:00 am – 8:00 pm
Tuesday 11:00 am – 8:00 pm
Wednesday 11:00 am – 8:00 pm
Thursday 11:00 am – 8:00 pm
Friday 11:00 am – 9:00 pm
Saturday 4:00 – 9:00 pm