Pay a bunch of money for Mexican food?
It’s enough to make a cat laugh. While Fonda San Miguel is to be congratulated for possessing a remarkable amount of sang froid when it comes to menu pricing; at the end of the day it’s Mexican food-which by our account should always be both dirt cheap and delicious. We love the comfy chairs, the sweet Mexican art and the stout cocktails but Fonda San Miguel’s cooks aren’t jumping through any culinary hoops that taqueras in food carts all over Austin aren’t jumping through with more elan.
All that being said, we still darken the door about once per annum. Normally when friends come to town with thick wallets who want “fancy” Mexican. Til La Condesa opened nearly 4 years ago, this was strictly the provenance of Fonda. They owned the “expense account Mexican” paradigm for decades in Austin.
We do love that Fonda San Miguel stepped into the clearlight of Tex Mex redemption and serve chips and salsa to their guests. Believe it or not, it was a big deal for the restaurant to grow a backbone and stand up to its mentor, Diane Kennedy, who felt the tradition was anathema to “real” Mexican food.