The old master continues to improve.

A recent visit to Three Little Pigs found subtle improvements across the board as we ran roughshod over the menu.

A porchetta was luscious and rich, tasting of local hog. The classic pork belly slider had our crew buzzing and reminiscing about the good old days of Odd Duck, while Chef Tatum’s homage to the Deep South; collards, grits and meatloaf stole honors as dish of the night. Looks like the word’s out too.

Formerly we could roll into Three Little Pigs in the late afternoon and have the place to ourselves but on this visit there was a line of 10 or so people in front of us and the former instant gratification of feeding within moments had been replaced by a solid half hour wait for the chow.

No matter. We sat quietly off to one side drinking champagne from solo cups and gazing off over the nearby cemetery as dusk settled in, a perfect tableau for one of the finest meals we’ve enjoyed in 2012.

previous Tatum coverage

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