Alison Cook issued a call to arms in 1983.
Our beloved Texas and all the glorious variations on it and beloved neighbor Mexico’s cuisine were being gussied up and trotted out for national consumption and she wasn’t buying it.
I made a rallying cry a few years back: “Take to the streets, they’re charging for chips and salsa”, after venturing into an Austin Tex Mex cafe and being bewildered when I received my check and noticed I’d been charged for the Texas’ birthright.
Free chips and salsa brought to table by a smiling Mexican girl is part of our cultural heritage and should not be infringed on by unsavory business men and their get rich quick schemes.
Ms. Cook issues several battle cries during the course of her several 1000 words article: She’s rightly peeved at the over use of mesquite, she looks askance at the rise of cilantro, thinks Cappy Lawton needs to be mugged in a back alley, rightly refers to the County Line Barbecue chain as “preppy” and looks favorably towards Lufkin and a certain restaurant that deep fries it’s yeast rolls.
It’s a great piece and an entertaining way to spend a half hour or an hour depending on how fast of a reader you are.
I’ll put a link to it up in comments below.
I’d love to hear what Ms. Cook thinks of the new trend happening in Austin where Mexican food is being re-interpreted as fine dining.